Up at 0700 and Elpie went to the shops, I was slower getting going but went for coffee. Jersey is very civilised with at least a couple of coffee shops that open at 0700. After picking up one for Hugo and Suzanne as well I headed back and we cast off at 0800 as planned, for a 23nm sail to Sark, followed by a further 23nm to Alderney.
The wind was light to start with but by 1000 we had the sails up and at 1015 we saw dolphins for the second time. This time it was a more numerous pod, and very close to the boat. Sadly they only made a quick visit before going on their way but what a beautiful sight.
An hour later and the wind dropped, the engine was back on and we were motor sailing but it wasn’t for long, we arrived in Sark at 1145 and picked up a mooring ball. The tender had been wrestled from the port locker earlier in the journey and now we unpacked and inflated it on the foredeck before hoisting it into the water.
The mooring was in an incredible bay, with steep cliffs around providing great protection. Hugo provided a taxi service for first Mark and Suzanne and then myself and Elpie. He definitely earned his Weetabix rowing back upwind to collect us, the small tender is not the most hydrodynamic of shapes even when unloaded.
Onshore we were faced with a steep climb up to the top of the hill. We didn’t count but I think there’s over 350 steps - it certainly felt like it. From there we walked along quiet (Sark is car-free, with only tractors providing fossil-fuel powered locomotion) paths and lanes to the visitors centre. There we got directions to the most accessible (least steep climb out) beach, and a recommendation for somewhere to eat.
Mark, Elpie and I went for food. Suzanne headed straight for the beach and Hugo went exploring. We quickly found the Stocks Hotel where we ate outside at the Smuggler’s Bar. The sandwiches were quite expensive but for Elpie’s loaded smoked salmon, and Mark’s BLT, good value. Less so for my tomato, mozzarella and pesto toasted sandwich but it was definitely welcome nourishment after the morning’s sail.
After that Mark went exploring and Elpie and I went in search of a swim at the beach. It was not the easiest to find, and we had a couple of “is it this way or not” moments but got there in the end - despite the misguided help from a gentleman who was distinctly lost himself. This we were very sure of because he was looking for the Stocks Hotel from which we’d just come. The search left Elpie saying she’d be amazed if we found Suzanne at the beach.
Nevertheless, it was a lovely walk through a forest and then down a few steps and onto the beach. A lovely bay with a few boats anchored inside, most with their tenders pulled up onto the beach. We found Suzanne and Elpie was indeed amazed. We did the awkward get changed inside a towel thing, and went down to the water. If I thought Alderney water was cold, it had nothing on Sark water. Having braved the former though, I was still a bit less hesitant to get fully immersed. We both swam a little bit – not really enough to say we went swimming, but just enough to stay warm before we headed back to the beach to dry in the sun.
Then it was time to head back to meet at the monument above the bay where we were moored, and walk down the 350 steps to sea level. It was a shame to leave Sark so soon, we definitely only touched the surface of the place, but we had miles to travel and a return to Alderney which would give us the best wind/tide to get back to the Isle of Wight. This decision was actually a bit of a debate: head back to Alderney and risk the north-east winds causing a sleepless night as Braye Harbour is open to winds from that direction, but doing so would give us a better run with the tides in the morning.
The journey to Alderney was blessed with good winds and we sailed the first part of the way back under sail alone, only starting the motor when the wind dropped. We approached Braye Harbour from the west this time, crossing through the Swinge which can be treacherous at the wrong time, but was easy enough at this point in the tide.
Fortunately the weather gods were kind to us. Braye Harbour was super calm and we easily picked up a mooring buoy. Elpie and Hugo cooked a fantastic meal and we relaxed on board, watching the sun set. We all chose an early night after such a packed day.
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